Monthly Archives

July 2015

Food & Drink

The Secret Life of the Menú del Día

30th July 2015
Pulpo a la brasa. Octopus

Spain’s most popular lunchtime deal — the menú del día — was invented for the convenience of tourists. Ironically, most tourists are not aware it exists.

When visiting Spain you’ll save yourself a ton of money, and discover some wonderful food offerings if you adopt the local custom of eating your main meal of the day between 2pm and 4pm and opt for the menú del día.

 

La Corrala, Barcelona by Bill Sinclair

Opting for a menú del día will relieve you of the stress of:

a) not knowing what the final bill (check) will be before you sit down;

b) wading through a seemingly endless menu of dishes you may not be familiar with;

c) choosing a wine to accompany your meal.

Another good reason to try a menú del día is that you’ll encounter and rub shoulders with natives, as opposed to other visitors. Rafa Peña, the very highly regarded chef at Gresca, says,
“In the evening 70% of our diners are foreigners, at lunchtime almost 90% are Barcelonins.”
On a good day, nothing beats a good, long, chatty menú del día with close friends or family.
Paella served as a first-course as part of a menú del día.

Paella served as a first-course as part of a menú del día.

So, what is a Menú del día?

Most restaurants in Spain, even Michelin-starred establishments, will offer a menú del día — menu of the day — a fixed-price lunch, Monday to Friday.

A menú del día will usually offer a choice of 5 or 6 first-courses, 5 or 6 second-courses, 5 or 6 desserts, wine, water (or beer or soft drink) bread and coffee, for an all-inclusive price of anywhere between 6,50€ and 30plus euros including service and tax.

Continue Reading…

Architectural Details

Gaudí’s Dragon Gate

23rd July 2015
Gate at Pabellons de Gaidi, Pedralbes, Barcelona 2015

One of the many wonderful things about exploring Barcelona is happening across curious architectural details in unexpected places.

Had to go to a meeting at the Polytechnic in Pedralbes the other day, and the route took me past Finca Güell and the magnificent dragon gate designed by Gaudí.

The finca was a home farm and summer residence owned by Gaudí’s patron, Eusebi Güell — yes, the same guy who funded the development of Park Güell. The gate gives access to beautiful gardens decorated with typical Gaudí flourishes.

Because of refurbisment works admission to the gardens and adjacent Gaudí designed Pavellons (Pavilions) is currently limited. But it is possible to visit the gardens between 10am and 4pm on weekdays. The cost of admission is 4€. There was a children’s puppet theatre show in the gardens the day I walked past.

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It is hoped to fully re-open the Pavilions and gardens at the end of 2015 or spring 2016.

More visitor information HERE

Enjoy exploring Barcelona

 

 

 

Getting Around

Visiting Barcelona? What you need know about the T-10.

16th July 2015

T-10 (Front)

One of the many wonderful and undersung aspects of Barcelona is the public transport network.

If visiting from the United States or the UK you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how clean, comfortable, convenient and reliable the local transport network is.

The best way to get around the city is to use public transport.

One of the first things to do after arriving in the city is to buy a

T-10 integrated transport ticket.

Think of it as your magic key to unlocking the city.

Why?

Because you’ll save a ton of money, save yourself a lot of time and hassle, and get to visit many more places and enjoy many more experiences.

Cost:

  • 9,95€ (for Zone 1)

Where to buy:

You can buy a T-10 [tay-dee-eth] from tobacconists, newspaper kiosks and newsagents, as well as all metro (subway) stations and all the main rail stations.

The touch screen ticket machines at metro and rail stations are easily navigated and accept cash (but NOT notes/bills larger than 20€) and most debit and credit cards. They’re pretty reliable — I’ve only once (in 12 years) had a problem with them. Should you have a problem you can press a panic button and speak with someone who will help you. In larger metro and rail stations there will be staff around to help you.

Here’s what you need to know:

You need to know that the T-10 is a multiperson, multi-use ticket, which means one person can use the ticket 10 times or 10 people can use it once, and every variation in between.

You need to know that a T-10 ticket is valid for travel on:

  • Busses, including night busses
  • The Metro
  • Local trains run by FGC, the Catalan public railway system
  • Local trains, known as Rodalies (or Cercanias in Spanish) run by RENFE, the Spanish national rail system
  • Trams
  • And two funiculars.

Exceptions:

You need to know that the T-10 is NOT valid for:

ZONES: Continue Reading…

The Transition

Battlefield Barcelona

9th July 2015
Grises en Gran de Gràcia, Barcelona

The streets of Barcelona comprise a battlefield which has hosted, and continues to host, skirmishes and more enduring clashes between armed police and local people.

The streets of Barcelona have seen fierce battles over issues such as workers’ rights, the pernicious, all-pervasive influence of the Church, education, Republicanism, a Stalinist coup, representative democracy, independence, workers’ self-management, property speculation, squatters’ rights, forced evictions and revolution.

The city’s layout has been largely informed by the tactical manoeuvre needs of the army. For example, Via Laietana, was deliberately created to allow cavalry units to disperse hostile crowds forming outside the inner city walls. Avinguda Diagonal was created, in part, to enable rapid access to the heart of the city by troops based in barracks near Pedralbes. Parc Ciutadella was once the site of an enormous miltary citadel. The castle on Montjuïc, was only handed to the city in 2008; until 1963 it was a prison run by the military to incarcerate and sometimes execute, dissidents.

1976: Los Grises in Els Jardinets

Continue Reading…

Now

A week before Learning to Drive

6th July 2015
Bacalao al pil pil con pebrots de Padrón by Bil Sinclair

A glimpse of how life is lived here.

Last Sunday evening caught up with a friend from the States en route to Italy.

We headed to Bar Bodega Quimet for a few vermuts before grazing around and settling awhile in a tapas bar on Carrer Verdi which I’ve never visited before, to enjoy a couple of montaditos before tucking into plates of bacalao al pil pil and pebrots de Padrón. I’ll be back.

After a stroll, and a relaxed cocktail at La Cigale, we ended the night in one of my favourite drinks bars, El Cine on Carrer del Torrent de l’Olla.

First thing Monday met with an esteemed theatre and opera director to discuss his forthcoming visit to the Edinburgh festival.

Later, after spending an hour or so on a novel in progress (Heavensfield), and an hour or so on a non-fiction book (How to Eat like a Local in Barcelona), I met with a trusted friend at his parents’ apartment in L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample. We discussed plans for a very special tri-lingual wine-tasting I’ll be hosting in November.

Entrance to an apartment building on Carrer Provença

Entrance to an apartment building on Carrer Provença in L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample

On Tuesday that once very special design store, Vinçon opened and closed its doors to the public for the very last time. I didn’t go along. I’d read Quim Monzó’s piece in La Vanguardia and… well, for slightly different reasons…couldn’t face it. Something about being here, in Barcelona, has now died.

Vinçon, Barcelona

Thursday evening met with the film-maker, Justin Donlon, at Gredos, a granja, or snack bar, across the street from Verdaguer metro, to discuss my role in a planned documentary about the artist, Geoff Harwood.

On Friday evening we met up with dear friends at Gredos and went along to a Beer Festival in Poblenou. It was a good do, and a grand time was had by all.

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On Saturday evening my better half, her son and I met at Bar Oller for a drink before traversing across Gràcia to a 22:20 screening of Isabel Coixet’s, Learning to Drive at Cines Verdi. We dropped into Bar l’Amistat, where we had morros and zarajos, before calling in at Lucania II, where we hoped to spend time enjoying slices of delicious pizza. However, it was really very busy, as always, and the clock was against us. We ate what we could but, at the end, had to ask for a doggy-bag. But it was still delicious, excellent pizza.

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The movie, Learning to Drive, starring Ben Kingsley, and directed by a local dirctor, Isabel Coixet, was ok, verging on good. The acting, camerawork and editing all superb. But for me, the script lacked a certain necessary tension.

Enjoy Barcelona.

Celebrations

Hot as hell and raining fire

2nd July 2015
Correfoc, Gràcia, Barcelona, 2014

One of the many wonderful things about exploring Barcelona is turning a corner and happening across curious festivities in unexpected places.

You never quite know… you may meet the Devil.

Devil in correfoc, Gràcia, Barcelona, August, 2014

They told you, “The Devil has no friends…” They were lying.

Correfoc, Gràcia, Barcelona, August, 2014`

He also has pets…

El Drac, correfoc, Gràcia, Barcelona, August. 2014

And a friend who wears shades…

Correfoc, Gràcia, August, 2014

And friends who enjoy a spot of fiery yoga and pilates in the morning…

Plaça de la Vila, Correfoc, Gràcia, Barcelona, august, 2014 –Bill Sinclair

Enjoy Barcelona.