Zarajo

6th August 2015

Zarajos as served at Morryssom

One of my favourite tapas dishes is Zarajo, braided sheep’s intestines wrapped around a vine branch and usually broiled, though often fried, sometimes smoked, and served hot with a wedge of lemon.

Very tasty.

Zarajos are not common in Barcelona — the dish originated in Cuenca, the city in Castilla–La Mancha.

They go well with a beer, though I recommend you try them with a glass of rough, strong red wine.

Two places which I know serve zarajo are:

Morryssom’s — one of my favourite lunch restaurants and tapas places — 3,40€.
Bar L’Amistat, Carrer de Torrijos, 13, in Gràcia — 3,90€.

Zarajo as served at Bar l’Amistat, Gràcia.

Zarajo as served at Bar L’Amistat

Enjoy!

The Transition

Battlefield Barcelona: Passeig de Sant Joan, 1976

5th August 2015

Los Grises in Passeig de Sant Joan, February 1976

The streets of Barcelona comprise a battlefield which has hosted, and continues to host, skirmishes and more enduring clashes between armed police and local people.

The streets of Barcelona have seen fierce battles over issues such as workers’ rights, the all-pervasive influence of the Church, education, Republicanism, a Stalinist coup, representative democracy, national independence, workers’ self-management, property speculation, squatters’ rights, forced evictions and revolution.

The city’s layout has been largely informed by the needs of the army.

For example:

Via Laietana, was deliberately created to allow cavalry units to disperse hostile crowds forming outside the inner city walls.
Avinguda Diagonal was created to enable rapid access to the heart of the city by troops based in barracks near Pedralbes.
Parc Ciutadella was once the site of an enormous miltary citadel.
The castle on Montjuïc, was only handed to the city in 2008; until 1963 it was a prison run by the military to incarcerate and sometimes execute, dissidents.

1976: Los Grises on Passeig de Sant Joan

Architectural Details

6 Modernista Details in L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample

4th August 2015

Entrance-to-an-apartment-building-on-Carrer-Provença-in-Antigua-Esquerra-de-lEixample-Barcelona.jpg

One of the many wonderful things about exploring Barcelona is happening across curious architectural details in unexpected places.

You could be on a shopping expedition — the above entrada in L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample is adjacent to a Bon Preu supermarket — or out with friends — this magnificent entrance is just a few metres from the restaurant, Gresca — or just taking a stroll, and pass by a beautiful entrance.

Look — but don’t intrude

It’s difficult sometimes to not stick your nose in, take a gander and snap a few photos.

PLEASE DON’T — unless it’s a civic building, hotel or office building. The residents won’t like you for it, and the portera/o [concierge] will almost certainly hustle you out of the building and call the police if you resist.

You could politely try asking the portera/o if you can take a few photos — some will oblige (while keeping a very close eye on you) but many won’t.

Instead, linger a little, savour the moment and walk on slowly by.

I am a frequent guest to this apartment building and enjoy the trust of both residents and the portero.

Film location

This apartment building has featured in a few movies, the most recent being, Mientras Duermes (While you sleep) although titled, Sleep Tight, in English — a creepy and coldly credible horror flick.

Lighting:

Walls:

Here’s a close-up of the relief work adorning the walls:

Stair rail and newel:

Lift/Elevator Doors — showing ironwork, stained glass and woodwork:

Windows:

Here are two photos of the interior window casements:

And here’s a snap of an interior window in the lift/elevator shaft:

Doors:

Here are two photos of an apartment exterior door:

And, finally, a view of the entrance looking toward the exterior doors:

Exclusive Offer:

If you’d like to stay as a guest in this unique building then please drop me a line via the Contact Me page and I will put you in touch with the owners.

Only you, me and the owners know about this offer — the apartment is NOT available to let through any lettings website or brick and mortar agency — and is only available on a bed and breakfast basis.

This is an exclusive opportunity — You are the very first people in the world to know about this opportunity to stay in an apartment in this fabulous Modernista building.

Enjoy Barcelona’s architecture.

General

The Secret Life of the Menú del Día

30th July 2015

Spain’s most popular lunchtime deal — the menú del día — was invented for the convenience of tourists. Ironically, most tourists are not aware it exists.

When visiting Spain you’ll save yourself a ton of money, and discover some wonderful food offerings if you adopt the local custom of eating your main meal of the day between 2pm and 4pm and opt for the menú del día.

Opting for a menú del día will relieve you of the stress of:

a) not knowing what the final bill (check) will be before you sit down;

b) wading through a seemingly endless menu of dishes you may not be familiar with;

c) choosing a wine to accompany your meal.

Another good reason to try a menú del día is that you’ll encounter and rub shoulders with natives, as opposed to other visitors. Rafa Peña, the very highly regarded chef at Gresca, says,

“In the evening 70% of our diners are foreigners, at lunchtime almost 90% are Barcelonins.”

On a good day, nothing beats a good, long, chatty menú del día with close friends or family.

Paella served as a first-course as part of a menú del día.

So, what is a Menú del día?

Most restaurants in Spain, even Michelin-starred establishments, will offer a menú del día — menu of the day — a fixed-price lunch, Monday to Friday.

A menú del día will usually offer a choice of 5 or 6 first-courses, 5 or 6 second-courses, 5 or 6 desserts, wine, water (or beer or soft drink) bread and coffee, for an all-inclusive price of anywhere between 6,50€ and 30plus euros including service and tax.

Architectural Details

Gaudí’s Dragon Gate

23rd July 2015

Gate at Pabellons de Gaidi, Pedralbes, Barcelona 2015

One of the many wonderful things about exploring Barcelona is happening across curious architectural details in unexpected places.

Had to go to a meeting at the Polytechnic in Pedralbes the other day, and the route took me past Finca Güell and the magnificent dragon gate designed by Gaudí.

The finca was a home farm and summer residence owned by Gaudí’s patron, Eusebi Güell — yes, the same guy who funded the development of Park Güell. The gate gives access to beautiful gardens decorated with typical Gaudí flourishes.

Because of refurbisment works admission to the gardens and adjacent Gaudí designed Pavellons (Pavilions) is currently limited. But it is possible to visit the gardens between 10am and 4pm on weekdays. The cost of admission is 4€. There was a children’s puppet theatre show in the gardens the day I walked past.

It is hoped to fully re-open the Pavilions and gardens at the end of 2015 or spring 2016.

More visitor information HERE

Enjoy exploring Barcelona

Getting Around

Visiting Barcelona? What you need know about the T-10.

16th July 2015

One of the many wonderful and undersung aspects of Barcelona is the public transport network.

If visiting from the United States or the UK you’ll be pleasantly surprised by how clean, comfortable, convenient and reliable the local transport network is.

The best way to get around the city is to use public transport.

One of the first things to do after arriving in the city is to buy a

T-10 integrated transport ticket.

Think of it as your magic key to unlocking the city.

Why?

Because you’ll save a ton of money, save yourself a lot of time and hassle, and get to visit many more places and enjoy many more experiences.

Cost:

9,95€ (for Zone 1)

Where to buy:

You can buy a T-10 [tay-dee-eth] from tobacconists, newspaper kiosks and newsagents, as well as all metro (subway) stations and all the main rail stations.

The touch screen ticket machines at metro and rail stations are easily navigated and accept cash (but NOT notes/bills larger than 20€) and most debit and credit cards. They’re pretty reliable — I’ve only once (in 12 years) had a problem with them. Should you have a problem you can press a panic button and speak with someone who will help you. In larger metro and rail stations there will be staff around to help you.

Here’s what you need to know:

You need to know that the T-10 is a multiperson, multi-use ticket, which means one person can use the ticket 10 times or 10 people can use it once, and every variation in between.

You need to know that a T-10 ticket is valid for travel on:

Busses, including night busses
The Metro
Local trains run by FGC, the Catalan public railway system
Local trains, known as Rodalies (or Cercanias in Spanish) run by RENFE, the Spanish national rail system
Trams
And two funiculars.

Exceptions:

You need to know that the T-10 is NOT valid for:

The Aerobús (the shuttle bus service to the Airport)
The funicular that runs up to Tibidabo
The cable car (teleférico) that runs from Barceloneta to Montjuïc
The cable cars that run up to the top of Montjuïc.
The Blue Tram (Tramvia Blau) which runs up to Tibidabo from Plaça John F.Kennedy.

ZONES: Continue Reading…

The Transition

Battlefield Barcelona

9th July 2015

The streets of Barcelona comprise a battlefield which has hosted, and continues to host, skirmishes and more enduring clashes between armed police and local people.

The streets of Barcelona have seen fierce battles over issues such as workers’ rights, the pernicious, all-pervasive influence of the Church, education, Republicanism, a Stalinist coup, representative democracy, independence, workers’ self-management, property speculation, squatters’ rights, forced evictions and revolution.

The city’s layout has been largely informed by the tactical manoeuvre needs of the army. For example, Via Laietana, was deliberately created to allow cavalry units to disperse hostile crowds forming outside the inner city walls. Avinguda Diagonal was created, in part, to enable rapid access to the heart of the city by troops based in barracks near Pedralbes. Parc Ciutadella was once the site of an enormous miltary citadel. The castle on Montjuïc, was only handed to the city in 2008; until 1963 it was a prison run by the military to incarcerate and sometimes execute, dissidents.

1976: Los Grises in Els Jardinets

BLOG, Now

A week before Learning to Drive

6th July 2015

Bacalao al pil pil con pebrots de Padrón by Bil Sinclair

A glimpse of how life is lived here.

Last Sunday evening caught up with a friend from the States en route to Italy.

We headed to Bar Bodega Quimet for a few vermuts before grazing around and settling awhile in a tapas bar on Carrer Verdi which I’ve never visited before, to enjoy a couple of montaditos before tucking into plates of bacalao al pil pil and pebrots de Padrón. I’ll be back.

After a stroll, and a relaxed cocktail at La Cigale, we ended the night in one of my favourite drinks bars, El Cine on Carrer del Torrent de l’Olla.

First thing Monday met with an esteemed theatre and opera director to discuss his forthcoming visit to the Edinburgh festival.

Later, after spending an hour or so on a novel in progress (Heavensfield), and an hour or so on a non-fiction book (How to Eat like a Local in Barcelona), I met with a trusted friend at his parents’ apartment in L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample. We discussed plans for a very special tri-lingual wine-tasting I’ll be hosting in November.

Entrance to an apartment building on Carrer Provença in L’Antiga Esquerra de l’Eixample

On Tuesday that once very special design store, Vinçon opened and closed its doors to the public for the very last time. I didn’t go along. I’d read Quim Monzó’s piece in La Vanguardia and… well, for slightly different reasons…couldn’t face it. Something about being here, in Barcelona, has now died.

Thursday evening met with the film-maker, Justin Donlon, at Gredos, a granja, or snack bar, across the street from Verdaguer metro, to discuss my role in a planned documentary about the artist, Geoff Harwood.

On Friday evening we met up with dear friends at Gredos and went along to a Beer Festival in Poblenou. It was a good do, and a grand time was had by all.

On Saturday evening my better half, her son and I met at Bar Oller for a drink before traversing across Gràcia to a 22:20 screening of Isabel Coixet’s, Learning to Drive at Cines Verdi. We dropped into Bar l’Amistat, where we had morros and zarajos, before calling in at Lucania II, where we hoped to spend time enjoying slices of delicious pizza. However, it was really very busy, as always, and the clock was against us. We ate what we could but, at the end, had to ask for a doggy-bag. But it was still delicious, excellent pizza.

The movie, Learning to Drive, starring Ben Kingsley, and directed by a local dirctor, Isabel Coixet, was ok, verging on good. The acting, camerawork and editing all superb. But for me, the script lacked a certain necessary tension.

Enjoy Barcelona.

Celebrations

Hot as hell and raining fire

2nd July 2015

One of the many wonderful things about exploring Barcelona is turning a corner and happening across curious festivities in unexpected places.

You never quite know… you may meet the Devil.

They told you, “The Devil has no friends…” They were lying.

He also has pets…

And a friend who wears shades…

And friends who enjoy a spot of fiery yoga and pilates in the morning…

Enjoy Barcelona.

Bodegas

5 Traditional bodegas

18th June 2015

Bar Bodega Quimet, Gràcia, Barcelona by Haarland Sinclair

Some bodegas serve the best little plates and tapas in the city

So, what is a bodega?

At its most simple a bodega is where locals buy everyday wines from the barrel, and occasional wines, cavas and spirits by the bottle or case. In short, an off-licence, or liquor store, where quality wines are considerably cheaper than in supermarkets, and where you can sample the wines before you buy.

What is a bar bodega?

A bar bodega is a bodega with a bar, serving wines, beers and spirits — and, often, little bites.
As well as serving quality wines at affordable prices you’ll find some bodegas serve the best little plates and tapas in the city — anything from simple olives, cured meats and cheeses, through elaborate montaditos, to epicurean delights such as angulas (elvers) and Russian royal king crab.

Plate of food at Quimet i Quimet, Poble Sec, Barcelona

Tapas at Quimet i Quimet.

Not so long back every barrio had maybe eight or more bodegas, where neighbours would meet for gossip over a vermut or a beer as they bought their family ration of booze. As incomes rose and tastes changed, and supermarkets moved in, bodegas fell out of favour or morphed into wine stores.

Bar Bodega Cal Pep, Gracia by Bill Sinclair

Bar Bodega Cal Pep in Gràcia.

And now — with owners cashing up and retiring — young savvy owners are taking their place, and with customers looking to save money — bodegas are back.
There are some that have always been around — check out Bodega Montse —a beautifully filthy relic of the 1890s:

But now, in place of the old jug and bottle shops, two distinct types of revamped bodegas are emerging — those positioned to appeal to a more affluent set — offering imported beers and premium brand spirits, where the ambience is more like a wine bar; and those which have retained the look, feel and smells of traditional bodegas which, with the addition of craft beers and exquisite snacks, appeal to a younger, more casual set.

Here are a few traditional though thriving bodegas you may want to check out:

Bar Bodega Quimet in Gràcia.

Bar Bodega Montse in the Raval.

Bar Bodega del Poblet very near the Sagrada Familia.

Bar Bodega E. Marin in Gràcia.

Bar Bodega Quimet i Quimet in Poble Sec.