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Gràcia

Camp d’en Grassot i Gràcia Nova

Home of Football Giant Killers: Camp d’en Grassot i Gràcia Nova in Barcelona

20th June 2023
Bar Oller, Camp d'en Grassot, Gràcia, Barcelona

This friendly, unpretentious neighbourhood forms a lively transit-zone between Vila de Gràcia, El Guinardó Baix, L’Eixample Dreta and Sagrada Familia.

It’s a bustly area with a huge range of shops, some very good inexpensive restaurants, scores of cafés, bars, two markets, a 4000 seat football stadium and a cultural centre. 

The neighbourhood comprises two barris: Camp d’en Grassot and Gràcia Nova.

HERCULES, Passeig de Sant Joan-Còrsega, Barcelona

HERCULES at junction of Passeig de Sant Joan-C/Còrsega,

Camp d’en Grassot — between Travessera de Gràcia and Carrer de Rosselló —  embraces the upper section of Passeig de Sant Joan which often hosts events such as craft food and drink markets, art exhibitions, music and dance concerts, swap meets and the occasional sopar popular and is now the temporary home of l’Abaceria Market — while the building in neighbouring  Vila de Gràcia is being refurbished.

On the intersection of Carrer de Indústria and Carrer de Sicília you’ll encounter an interesting building — La Sedeta (the silk mill). Built in 1899 and in use until 1976, the mill was acquired by the Ajuntament (City Hall) in 1978 and artfully converted into a secondary school, civic and cultural centre, bar-cafeteria and recreation area. 

Gràcia Nova — the more modern area above Travessera de Gràcia — hosts L’Estrella market and a Guardia Civil barracks — one of three Guardia Civil barracks within the city — and Nou Sardenya football stadium.

1996/97 Copa Catalunya final — CE Europa 3 FC Barcelona 1.

1996/97 Copa Catalunya final — CE Europa 3 FC Barcelona 1. With Sir Bobby Robson applauding CE Europa as the team celebrate their victory.

Demographically it’s fairly well-balanced; academics and intellectuals, journalists, lawyers and creatives rub shoulders with skilled construction workers, auto-mechanics, care workers, shop workers, labourers and off-duty bar and restaurant staff on a daily basis. Makes life interesting.

The locals are friendly and have become very adept at deploying a repertoire of hand signals and several mangled languages to explain precisely where and how far the Sagrada Familia is.

If staying here…

…then you are perfectly situated for exploring the rest of the city. Public transport connections are excellent.

Stroll 10 minutes one way and you’re at the Sagrada Familia. Stroll 10 minutes in the opposite direction and you’ll be at the heart of Vila de Gràcia.

La Pedrera and Casa Batlló are within an easy 25/30 minute stroll, and Sant Pau Recinte Modernista is one or two stops on the bus or metro. And Park Güell is one stop or two stops on the metro from Verdaguer or Joanic (Line 4) to Alfons X to connect with the free shuttle bus to the park — or a few stops on the V19 bus.

Getting to and from the Airport isa breeze — stroll to Passeig de Gràcia RENFE rail station (allow 25/35 minutes) and take the train (every half-hour) — 28 minutes later you’re at Terminal 2. OR stroll to Verdaguer metro, take L5 (Blue), four stops to RENFE Sants Estacio (6 mins) and take the Airport train from there (25 minutes) — OR, if staying in the upper part of the barri, Gràcia Nova, take the metro L4 (Yellow) from Joanic to Verdaguer (1 stop) then change to L5 (Blue) four stops to RENFE Sants Estacio (6 mins) and take the Airport train from there (25 minutes).

Equally, bus connections to the rest of the city are very good.

If staying elsewhere…

…in the city then there’s nothing that special you’d miss — nothing you really have to see — if you didn’t visit. You may find yourself strolling through our barri on your way to or from the Sagrada Familia.

Camp Nou Sardenya, Gràcia, Barcelona

Nou Sardenya football stadium — home of C.E. Europa — the pride of Gràcia.

People

I live here.

Joan Laporta, the President of FC Barcelona, grew up here — his parents used to live just across the street from our apartment. He still keeps one of his cars in the underground car-park just off Passeig de Sant Joan, and he occasionally pops into Pep’s (Bar Oller — now Junior’s), on the corner of C/Còrsega and Passeig de Sant Joan, for a swifty when visiting the neighbourhood.

Club Esportiu Europa football club has its Nou Sardenya stadium here. Established in 1907 the club was one of the founding members of La Liga in 1928. Although currently in the Second Division, locals have never forgotten the glory days of the 1990s when CE Europa twice beat FC Barcelona in the final of the Copa Catalunya.

Montesa motorcycles established their first factory here, on Carrer de  Còrsega.

Montesa factory as was on Carrer de  Còrsega, Barcelona

Montesa motorcycle factory as was on Carrer de Còrsega, Barcelona.

Festivities & Traditions

Festa Major:

From mid-June to the first weekend of July

Food & Drink

Markets: You have a choice of two food markets:

L’Estrella, in Gràcia Nova. Here is a link. 

L’Abaceria, at the top of Passeig de Sant Joan. A link to more information: HERE.

Tapes:

Ramona, on Carrer Roger de Flor, opposite Can Josep’s.

Bar Bodega Can Ros at Carrer Roger de Flor, 303. WEBSITE.

Bar-Restaurante Pirineus 1935 on the junction of Travessera de Gràcia and Carrer de Bailèn.

Lunch only:

El Pórtico —  Carrer de  Grassot, 15

Lunch & Dinner:

Can Josep — Carrer Roger de Flor, 237. Reservations: T: (+34) 630816565

Vegetarian & Vegan:

Dolce Pizza & Los Veganos. A link to a Spotted by Locals writeup by Cris Rosique HERE

Culture

Cinema: Although there is no cinema in the neighbourhood there are two cinemas which screen movies in original language (V.O.) close by:

Texas on Carrer de Bailèn  WEBSITE. NOTE: Cinema Texas is currently closed — but there is a local campaign to help re-open it.

Phenomena on Carrer de Sant Antoni Maria Claret. WEBSITE.

Music: The cultural centre at Centre Cívic La Sedeta hosts live music gigs most Friday evenings. The range of music presented includes tango and flamenco guitar duos, hard rock, r’n’b, rumba as well as the occasional classical gig. FREE. Current programme HERE.

Football

C.E. Europa:Known as the Escapulats (an escapulat is the Vee/Chevron form as worn on the team shirts) 

Tickets: 10€. (Or, a season ticket will cost you 50€, or a half-season ticket, available in January, costs 30€)

Kick-off: Usually Sunday at 12 midday.

The club also fields a very competent female first team, and if you time your visit right you can watch a women’s game either before or after the first team matches — your ticket covers all matches played on the day.

The stadium has a good little café-bar, Chus (after the owner), serving beers (including a local craft beer — Birra de Gràcia), tea, coffee and a full range of hot and cold snacks at reasonable prices.

Some helpful lingo:

An Eskapulat is a member of the hard-core supporters group — or penya. They occupy the terrace behind the goal near the entrance on Carrer del Secretari Coloma. 

A Cavaller is a member of the older, wiser group of supporters — or penya — who, quite sensibly, occupy the bar area.

A soci is a paid-up member of the club.  An abonat is a season ticket holder. A gracienc is a resident of Gràcia.

Matches attract a good, family friendly crowd — and there’s never any unpleasantness EXCEPT matches against arch-rivals, U.E. Sant Andreu, when a heavy, no-nonsense, police presence can seem intimidating.

If thinking of attending a match here are some useful phrases:

  • Escapulats per sempre! — C.E. Europa forever.
  • L’orgull de Gràcia — The pride of Gràcia.
  • L’àrbitre és espanyol — The referee is Spanish.
  • L’àrbitre se drogue — The referee is on drugs.

If you enjoy quality, entertaining, meaningful football at a sensible price then you’ll find a visit to Nou Sardenya stadium will prove a wise investment of time and money.

When I took my English son-in-law to Nou Sardenya for the first time as we entered the stadium he remarked, “Well, this is all very civilised.” And it is.

The club’s website HERE.

Features

La Sedeta (the silk mill), between the intersections of Carrer de Sant Antoni Maria Claret, Carrer de Indústria and Carrer de Sicília, is an interesting building. Built in 1899 and in use until 1976, the mill was acquired by the Ajuntament (City Hall) in 1978 and repurposed as a secondary school, civic and cultural centre, cafeteria and recreation area. 

Here’s a link to La Sedeta’s webpage (en català only): La Sedeta

Enjoy exploring Camp d’en Grassot i Gràcia Nova.

Snacks

A pizza and a pint of beer in Barcelona for less than $7

6th May 2022
Carn Bier,Espinac,Gorgonzola pizzes, Lucania ii Barcelona

Barcelona's restaurants and bars offer a wide and wild variety of cuisines and creative dishes. 

Even the most ardent foodie will confess that grazing on tapas and dining in fine restaurants is both wearing on the wallet and bruising on the palate.

When out and about there will come a time when you want something more ordinary… a tasty, light bite.

Well… you could grab a pizza.

And, one of the best places to grab a pizza in Barcelona is Lucania II in Vila de Gràcia.

For less than the average price of a Bikini (grilled ham and cheese sandwich) you can enjoy a delicious, freshly prepared pizza margarita.

Variety

25 plus variations — including one of my favourites: minced beef cooked in beer with bacon, plus two or three daily specials. 

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Celebrations

FESTES DE GRÀCIA, 2019 IN BARCELONA

16th August 2019
Correfoc, agost 15, Gràcia,2019

Festes de Gràcia, 2019 — and we're off! 

Agost 15, Day One:

8.15am: We set off to Plaça de la Revolució de Septembre 1868 where we met up with Miquel and Silvia. 

En route we caught a passing look of Carrer de Puigmarti, where a team of locals were still hard at it. 

Carrer de Puigmarti, 2019

8:46am: and the Trabucaires fire the traca and prepare to fire their very loud guns to launch the parade…. and, a few seconds later I lost the sense of hearing in my right ear.

And then…we were joined by…the Lord of the Flies himself…Beelzebub.

The cardboard bin next to me caught fire. No biggie.

Beelzebub, Gràcia, 2019
Drac, Gràcia, 2019

And on to Plaça del Sol…and a decorated balcony…

Plaça del Sol, Gràcia, 2019

Then off to explore the streets…

Poppy field, Gràcia, 2019

… before the hordes arrive…

Library Monk on Mozart, Gràcia, 2019
Palette and brushes, Mozart, Gràcia, 2019

…before resting a while for breakfast in Plaça de la Vila

Plaça de la Vila, Gràcia, 2019

And then we wended a roundabout route home, via Carrer de Llibertat…

Dolphins on Llibertat, Gràcia, 2019
Eye-catching exotic crab on Carrer de Llibertat

Eye-catching exotic crab on Carrer de Llibertat

10.30pm: We wandered out again, via Passeig de Sant Joan, Plaça Joanic and over to Carrer Verdi…I have never seen an entry line so long… so we headed up to the exit…

Carrer Verdi, Gràcia, 2019

Carrer Verdi, Gràcia, 2019

Then we headed over to Plaça de Rovira i Trias via a packed, and lively Carrer de Providencia… 

Carrer de Providencia, Festes de Gràcia, 2019

Carrer de Providencia

Providencia Mine and miner2, Gràcia, 2019

We hung out a short while in Plaça Rovira i Trias, surrounded by eerie birds, before heading over to Plaça del Nord…and the most pleasant surprise of the evening.

Every year during the festes there's always a stand out band, a band which pumps out party pleasing music and gets the crowd singing along. 

The rumba band, Alma de Boquerón (Soul of Anchovy), a tight and polished 7-piece ensemble, knocked out a string of irresistible tunes before segueing into a rip-roaring version of Dick Dale's classic, Miserlou, and, then, without dropping a beat, segueing unexpectedly into a thunderous version of Pink Floyd's Another Brick in the Wall. A rumba band playing Pink Floyd? You bet. Brilliant. And then they teased us all with the opening bars of Led Zeppelin's, Stairway to Heaven, before reverting to lively, witty, tongue in cheek contemporary rumba.

Ama de Boqueron, Plaça del Nord, Gràcia, 2019

Alma de Boquerón, Plaça del Nord, Gràcia, 2019

HERE's a LINK to their official website, where you'll find a sample compilation of tunes:HERE.

Enjoy! They are playing four more gigs during the festes. 

TONIGHT (agost 16)  Carrer Verdi at 11pm.

Sunday, agost 18, Passeig de Sant Joan at Midnight.

Monday, agost 20, Carrer Tordera at 11pm.

Tuesday, agost 21, Carrer Joan Blanques de Baix de Tot at 11pm.

If you get chance do try and catch them in action.

After the gig we trekked back down and along Carrer Verdi, where it was still rammed, before heading to Raïm for a mojito, and then down along Carrer Progrés, Carrer Perill and home for around 3am. Another great day in the barri.

got, 2019, gràcia

Bones Festes!

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La Salut

Gaudí’s Dreamlike Park: La Salut, Gràcia in Barcelona

29th April 2018
La Salut, Barcelona

Map of La Salut, Gràcia, Barcelona

Map of La Salut neighbourhood in Gràcia,

Dreamlike park and hilltop views.

The small hillside barri, La Salut is one of the most visited neighbourhoods in Barcelona. Why? Gaudí’s Park Güell.

As well as the Park there’s the Gaudí House Museum situated within the Park, and the interactive Gaudí Experiència, with its 4D cinema-ride, at Carrer de Larrard, 41 on the approach to the Park.

It’s a curious, residential barri and…

​​​If staying here…

…you’ll feel a little out on a limb when it comes to visiting other parts of the city.

Although the area is relatively easy to get to from the city centre it’s not so easy going into the city centre.

If you’re happy to walk then Lesseps metro(L3 — Green) isn’t so very far.

If you don’t want to walk then you could always use the number 116 Bus — which will drop you at Lesseps metro station and Joanic metro station (Line 4 – Yellow) in neighbouring Camp d’en Grassot I Gràcia Nova.

In terms of grazing around and stopping off for a bite and a drink, it’s a very quiet area and you’ll likely spend much time walking to and from neighbouring Vila de Gràcia.

Lesseps food market is nearby at Carrer de Verdi, 200-210, just above Traveserra de Dalt. 

If staying elsewhere in the city…

…and it’s your first visit, then you’ll almost certainly want to visit Park Güell.

IMPORTANT: You cannot buy an entrance ticket at the Park — you’ll have to book your ticket ahead of time HERE. The price of the ticket includes a FREE bus shuttle from metro station Alfons X.

You could take the number 24 Bus from Plaça Catalunya, or Passeig de Gràcia or Gran de Gràcia. Or, you could catch the V19 BusBoth busses will drop you at the side entrance to the Park, from where it’s a brief walk through the Park, downhill, to the ticketed (monumental) area.

However, the best, most convenient way o reach the park from the city centre is to use the metro — Line 4 — Yellow — to Alfons X where a FREE shuttle bus will drop you at the main entrance to the Park.

HHouse in La salut, Barcelona

​People

Andreas Corelli, the mysterious character in Carlos Ruiz Zafón’s bestseller, The Angel’s Game, lived very near the entrance to Park Guëll, on the corner of Carrer d’Olot and Carrer de Mariana.  

Dolors Aleu, the first woman in Spain to be licensed to practice medicine, was born here in 1857. A health centre in El Putxet i el Farró is named after her.

Ernest Lluch, the politicianlived here for a time while he was Minister for Health in the first post-Franco Socialist government between 1982-86. He was assassinated by ETA in 2000. There is a tram stop named after him in neighbouring L’Hospitalet de Llobregat.

Pompeu Fabra, the revered Catalan language activist, was born here in 1868. The well-known university is named after him.

Antoni Gaudí, the architect, lived here from 1906 until his death in 1926.

Graffiti in La Salut, Barcelona

Festivities & Traditions

Festa Major:

First week of September, culminating on the 8th, with a full programme of family friendly activities including parades, music, fire, castellers (human towers) and havaneres (Cuban-Spanish balladeers) — well worth checking out if you’re in the area.

La Diada:

September 8th.

Eat & Drink

Sorry, you’re on your own here — I cannot currently recommend anywhere here to eat and drink. If you have any suggestions then please pass them on to me — and I’ll investigate.

I suggest you wander downhill into Vila de Gràcia where you’ll find many options for both lunch and dinner. 

Asian​

You could try Ta-Tung, a long-established Cambodian restaurant, which also serves Chinese and Japanese dishes. However, unless you can speak Khmer, French, Catalan or Spanish, or perhaps Cantonese or Mandarin, you will struggle to get precisely what you want. Carrer de la Mare de Déu de la Salut, 75. No website. (The Ta-Tang website is for the catering business.)

Breakfast, snacks​ and maybe lunch

If you’ve made an early start and find yourself in the neighbourhood before the Park opens then Bar Restaurante La Salut, at Carrer de la Mare de Déu de la Salut, 16, (open from 6am Monday to Friday and 7am at weekends) is probably your best option for a coffee and breakfast snack. And, if you don’t mind rubbing shoulders with humble locals, they  offer a cheap, basic menú del día.

Local Feasting

If you want to try a calçotada, butifarrada, paella, or sopar popular in the company of neighbours then you could try La Miranda — the local cultural association. They organise events throughout the year. Here is their website: La Miranda.

Arts & Entertainment

Museum

Gaudí House Museum — Inside Park Güell. YOU DO NOT NEED AN ADMISSION TICKET TO THE PARK to visit the Museum. Open: Every day of the week from 9am through to 8pm. Admission: 5,50€. Or, as part of a combined ticket which also gives access to the Sagrada Familia: 24€.

La Miranda — the local cultural association promotes events, including free concerts, throughout the year.

Gaudí ExperiènciaInteractive 4-D cinema.

Enjoy exploring La Salut

Graffiti

Amy Winehouse in Barcelona IV

13th September 2017
Graffiti portrait of Amy Winehouse on Carrer Mozart during festes de Gràcia, 2017

One of the many wonderful things about exploring Barcelona is happening across curious portraits of well-known, and not so well-known, people in unexpected places.

Here's another portrait of the singer, Amy Winehouse which appeared on Carrer Mozart in Vila de Gràcia during the Festes de Gràcia, 2017.

Context

The graffiti is on a door in Carrer de Mozart, Vila de Gràcia.

For more graffiti featuring Amy Winehouse go HERE, HERE and HERE

Enjoy discovering graffiti in Barcelona.

Celebrations

Festes de Gràcia, 2017, Day 2, in Barcelona

17th August 2017

Day 2, 10:30pm: After yesterday's exertions we planned to spend most of our time on one street, Joan Blanques, split into two decorated sections and with two stages featuring two very different crowd pleasing bands: A Contrablues and Dani Nel·lo's Jazz Savages.

Carrer Joan Blanques de Baix

11pm: We found two chairs and a table and installed ourselves on Joan Blanques de Baix.

Carrer Joan Blanques de Baix de Tot

1am: Having decided we all needed a halfway decent mojito the four of us wended a way through the streets to Raïm. I ordered a mojito made with an oscuro (dark rum) the Nicaraguan, 7 year-old Flor de Caña.

Visca Cuba! Visca Catalunya! Visca Nicaragua!

Advertising poster for cigars in Raïm

2:30am ish: Having joshed and chatted with the Italian chef from a well-known and popular (or, should that be 'polpolar'?) Gallego restaurant, we left Raïm and headed down Carrer Progrés…

Collage of posters from USSR on Carrer Progrés

…and a huge statue of Lenin….

Mr. Vladimir Ilyich Ulaynov on Carrer Progrés

…where we encountered a handsome looking bloke wearing an Augusto Sandino t-shirt chatting with his poet girlfriend.

Visca Nicaragua! Visca Catalunya!

Carrer Progrés

And then to Carrer de Llibertat…

Skellies on Carrer Llibertat

5am: We finally called it a night and headed for bed.

Celebrations

Festes de Gràcia, 2017 in Barcelona

17th August 2017
Diablos Plaça Revolució, Gràcia 2017

Festes de Gràcia, 2017 — and we're off! 

Day One:

8am: A group of eight of us assemble for coffee and pastries at La Corrala before setting off to Plaça de la Revolució de Septembre 1868 to catch the start of the parade which announces the start of the festes.

En route we caught a passing look of Carrer de Puigmarti. 

Carrer de Puigmarti  2017

Carrer de Puigmarti

8:38am: and the Trabucaires prepare to fire their very loud guns to launch the parade….

Trabucaires

And then…we were joined by…the Lord of the Flies himself…

Beelzeebub

Beelzebub

And, so to Plaça de la Vila — now transforned as The Little Prince square…

Plaça de la Vila during festes de Gràcia, 2017

Plaça de la Vila during festes de Gràcia, 2017

While the morning correfoc reached a climax…

Then off to explore the streets…

Plaça Rovira i Trias Gràcia 2017

Plaça Rovira i Trias

… picking up a few stragglers along the way. Now we were 10.

VW camper van in Carrer Providencia

VW camper van in Carrer Providencia

But, before Carrer Verdi we lost two fainthearts. We were again 8.

Carrer de Puigmarti

Carrer de Puigmarti

After visiting every decorated street we wended a way home via Carrer Perill…

Carrer de Perill

…and a bar on Bailén before getting home for a shower, lunch and a nap.

6pm: And, four of us strolled out again to watch the cercavila.

Mean looking hombres from outta town looking to party

And here comes the T-shirt man…

…and the Castellers…

Castellers on Travessera de Gràcia and Torrent de l'Olla

Castellers on Travessera de Gràcia and Torrent de l'Olla

11pm: And, so, after mazing and grazing around, and after choripans and empanadas at Plaça Joanic, the four of us ended up on Passeig Sant Joan to see A Contrablues and meet a few friends.

From the very first vibrato chords the band had all assembled in the palms of their sticky hands. A brilliant band who never fail to deliver. 

A Contrablues on Passeig de Sant Joan

A Contrablues on Passeig de Sant Joan

All in all a great day out in the 'hood.

Bones Festes!

Vila de Gràcia

Lively, radical, arty warren of fun and solidarity: Vila de Gràcia in Barcelona

8th April 2017

Map of Vila de Gràcia, Barcelona

Map of Vila de Gràcia.

Vila de Gràcia, the heart of the district of Gràcia, is a warren of very strollable streets and inviting squares fringed with café-bars, craft, design and fashion stores, restaurants offering every kind of cuisine, cool bodegas, independent cinemas, music venues, theatres, art galleries, craft workshops, an excellent market, plus much, much more. 

The neighbourhood is famed for its Festa Major in August, when hundreds of thousands of visitors cram the narrow streets to inspect the residents’ wonderfully inventive decorations.

Vila de Gràcia is also well-known for its political activism, with frequent protsts, meetings and direct action which occasionally provoke a heavy-handed response from the Mossos d’Esquadra’s Mobile Group (anti-disturbance police).

You could easily spend a whole month strolling and grazing around, stopping off at squares, window shopping and dancing ’til you drop, and never get its measure.

Until 1897 Vila de Gràcia was a town in its own right and still has its own town hall (ajuntament). 

Deceptively quiet during the day​ the squares come alive after local kids get out of school. Then the shops, markets and bars fill with locals on the way home from work. Then it’s dinner and the restaurants get busy. And then the grown ups come out to play in the squares.

With streets called Danger, Friendship and Liberty, and squares named John Lennon, Revolution, and the Women of 1936, how can you not explore this intriguing neighbourhood?

If staying here you’ll have a great time. Even if you’re not a party animal, it’s a fascinating area to simply stroll around — you’re sure to find something interesting. Getting in and out of the city centre by bus, metro and FGC trains is a breeze.

If staying elsewhere in the city then it’s well worth a visit — perhaps for lunch or dinner, or a drink and a snack on your way to or from nearby, Park Güell in neighbouring La Salut.

People

FC Barcelona goalkeeper Ter Stengen, considered one of the top three goalkeepers in the world, lives here. If you keep your eyes open you may see him noodling through the streets on his electric scooter.

Opera diva, Montserrat Caballé was born here, at  Carrer de Igualada, 21.

Movie director, Isabel Coixet lives here, as does singer-songwriter, Jackson Browne.

Esteemed writer, Mercè Rodoreda, although she lived in El Putxet before her exile in France, immortalized the neighbourhood in her classic 1962 novel, La plaça del diamant — In Diamond Square, set immediately before and during the Civil War.

Rumba catalana Catalan rumba music, made popular in the mainstream by The Gypsy Kings, was nurtured here. 

Festivities & Traditions

Els Foguerons

Last weekend of January — in 2020: Jan. 23rd to Jan 25th. Bonfires,  a parade, correfoc, music and food.

For 2020 go HERE: Els Foguerons de Sant Antoni de Sa Pobla

Festa de Sant Medir

March 3rd — a colourful cavalcade of horses and carriages, freely distributing tons of sweets as it parades through the streets. All good fun.

La Diada

June 4th — the neighbourhood celebrates its Diada (founding day) —when they’ll be a correfoc.

Festa Major

August 15th — August 21st

The whole neighbourhood goes crazy for a week. Streets compete to construct the most elaborate and entertaining decorations from recycled materials, and every square is packed with colour and music — from traditional folk, through swing, country, jazz, rumba, havaneres, R’n’B, world music, to ska, thrash-punk and techno. And all the decorated streets have stages hosting more music, theatre and dance.

My tip: Dress appropriately and go to Plaça Revolució at8.30am on the first day (August 15th). You will most certainly see me there — I go every year. Follow the noisome parade to the town square, rest up a while with a drink and a snack, and then visit each of the decorated streets before the hordes arrive. You will never forget the experience.

Vlia de Gràcia Castellers in Plaça de la Vila, Gràcia, BarcelonaTown clock, Gràcia, Barcelona.Castellers Ajuntament de Gràcia

Food & Drink

Snacks

Café Diamant in Plaça del Diamant. Here’s my write-up.

Pizzeria Lucania II on Carer de Terol. Here’s my write-up.

Tapes

Nou Can Codina on the corner of Torrent de l’Olla and Carrer Perill. Write-up HERE.

Bar Bodega Quimet on Carrer Vic just below Travessera de Gràcia. Write-up HERE.

Roure on the corner of Carrer Luis Antúnez and ​Plaçeta de Sant Miquel. WRITE UP.

Restaurants

All these restaurants offer a good value menú del día. And all are good for dinner.

Cal Boter. My write-up​.

Goliard. Write-up HERE.

​La Singular. Write-up HERE.

Somodó. Write-up HERE.​

La Llesca​. Here’s my write-up.

Bars

Raïm 1886, Cuban rum specialist on the corner of Carrer Progrés and Carrer Siracusa. GUARDIAN write-up HERE. Spotted by Locals write-up HERE.

Bar Vinil, — indie music bar — on Carrer de Matlide, very near Plaça de la Vila. Here’s a write-up by my Spotted by Locals colleague, Cris Rosique: LINK.

Cervesera Artesana — real ale bar and microbrewery — on Carrer de Sant Agustí, just off Carrer Còrsega. Another write-up by Cris Rosique HERE

Markets

Mercat de l’Abaceria has moved to the top of Passeig de Sant Joan in neighbouring Camp d’en Grassot in Gràcia Nova.

Mercat de la Llibertat. WRITE-UP.

Bodegas

Bodega E. Marin. In between l’Abaceria Market and John Lennon Square. WRITE-UP.

Bar Bodega Quimet on Carrer Vic just below Travessera de Gràcia. Write-up HERE.

Arts & Entertainment

Cinema

Cinema Verdi on Carrer Verdi.

Cinema Verdi Park on Carrer Torrijos. WRITE UP HERE.​ LINK TO CURRENT PROGRAMME HERE.

Cinemes Texas. Great little cinema run by film drector, Ventura Pons. Recently voted the best little cinema in Europe, all seats only 3€ during the week and only 4€ at weekends. Here’s a link to a write-up by Carlos Domeque at Spotted by Locals: HEREAll movies are in original language with Catalan subtitles.Here’s the official website: LINK .

Live music

Heliogàbal on Carrer Ramón y Cajal. LINK. And here’s a write-up by Cris RosiqueHERE.

Centre Artesà Tradicionàrius at Plaça Anne Frank. Here’s a write-up by Spotted by Locals’ Cris Rosique HERE. And here’s a LINK to the venue’s website.

Pipa Club,  LINK. at Carrer de Santa Eulalia, 21.

Art, Design & Photography

Sculpture

Shopping

Apple Repairs

Galería H2O at the top end of Carrer Verdi. LINK.

Anne Frank — sited on the canopy of Centre Artesà Tradicionàrius in Plaça Anne Frank. Write-up HERE.

The Pigeon Girl in Plaça del Diamant. Write-up HERE.

Hibernian Books — Books in English — here’s a WRITE-UP.

Vinyls: Discos 100, on Carrer de l’Escorial. Here’s a write-up by Cris Rosique: LINK.

El Mac Barcelonés, in John Lennon Square. Here’s a write-up: LINK.

Kids’ Stuff

Model Railway Exhibit

Barcelona en Miniatura — a lovingly crafted animated diorama of Barcelona as it was in the 1930s. Only open on Sundays between 11am and 2pm. FREE ADMISSION for youngsters aged 12 and under. Grown-ups: 3€. Plaça del Nord. LINK.

Dracs, Gegants & Capgrossos. Dragons, Giants and Big Heads.

Gràcia Town Hall. Permanent exhibit of local processional imagery. Weekdays only. FREE ADMISSION. LINK.

Enjoy exploring Vila de Gràcia.

Graffiti

Breaking Bad’s Heisenberg in Barcelona

12th January 2017
 Bryan-Cranston-graffiti-Gràcia-Barcelona-by-Bill-Sinclair.jpg

One of the many wonderful things about exploring Barcelona is happening across curious portraits of well-known, and not so well-known, people in unexpected places.

Here's a portrait of the actor, Bryan Cranston as Walter White — AKA Heisenberg — from the TV series, Breaking Bad, on Carrer de Rabassa in ​Vila de Gràcia.

Context

The graffiti is on a private garage door.​

Walter White AKA Bryan Cranston, Gràcia, Barcelona by Bill sinclair

Enjoy discovering graffiti portraits in Barcelona